Cue Buying Guide
The information below is to help you choose the right cue for you from
this website. The terms used will help you understand why various
factors and techniques in the specification and design and making of
the cue are beneficial.
You can always pop in for impartial advice on buying any
cue, the
only thing we will stress is that our prices are usually cheaper than
buying anywhere else on the high street or internet, so even more
reason to come in and buy.
The length of a snooker cue is about the same as your shoulder height
(usually 57 inches but Peradon are 58 inches). This allows you to grip
the queue firmly at the cue butt and use a smooth action to strike the
ball accurately and properly. If the cue is too short your playing
action becomes awkward and if the cue is too long it can be difficult
to maintain the correct balance when sliding the cue tip over the
bridge made by your hand.
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The narrower the cue tip diameter the more swerve, top spin, side spin
or reverse spin can be applied to manipulate the ball when playing.
However this extra control comes at a price as the narrower a cue tip
becomes, the more difficult it is to play long distance shots the full
12 foot length of a snooker table without applying this spin to the
ball. Every player has a different comfort zone and this is therefore
really down to personal preference and style of play.
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Most cues are predominantly made from ash with an ebony butt although
other woods are in use as well as man made materials. Metals such as
lead and iron can be inserted in the butt to add balancing weight as an
alternative to using more expensive hard woods.
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The grain of the wood can play an important part in how the cue feels
when the cue ball is struck and is better to run in one direction along
the cue. Furthermore the lines of the grain can be a distraction when
eyeing up the tip, cue ball and object ball making playing a shot more
difficult.
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In order to connect two pieces of different wood together a technique
called splicing is often used. This gives rise to the traditional saw
tooth appearance of the darker ebony butt of the cue against the
lighter ash main shaft. The denser ebony adds weight to the butt of the
cue helping to provide the correct balance.
Another technique of balancing the weight along the cue is to insert a
lead or iron rod into the cue butt. This can be used on its own or in
combination with traditional splicing techniques. Furthermore by using
a combination of techniques to balance the weight more decorative
designs can be incorporated into the cue using a variety of different
shaded and lighter woods whilst maintaining the appropriate balance.
Many of the cheaper cues are simply painted to appear spliced and in
such cases the traditional look is there for decoration only.
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Cues made by a dedicated craftsman will each be unique and ooze
quality, as each cue is made one at a time. This allows the woods
generally ash and ebony to be specially selected and matched perfectly.
Any imperfections in the wood can be used advantageously by the
craftsman to produce a playable and attractive cue.
A mass manufactured cue does not have this personal touch and may not
meet the same high standards. However this additional personal care
affects price and availability. Some renowned craftsmen produce fewer
than 100 cues a year which are extremely sought after and therefore are
not always available.
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Mass manufactured cues can easily be identified, the splicing tends to
be much sharper narrowing to a point. With a handmade cue the splicing
tends to narrow towards a more elliptical point.
Any imperfections in the wood such as the grain, knots etc can reduce
the quality of the finished cue and these are more likely in a
manufactured cue. In contrast the wood used to make a cue by hand will
have been carefully selected to avoid or take advantage of the
naturally occurring features of the wood.
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The smoothness of the cue can affect your playing action and it is
often the case that a handmade cue will be sanded much smoother and
contribute to better splay. Cheaper mass produced cues often make up
for this by applying thicker varnish.
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Some of the more expensive queues use a wide variety of woods such as
walnut and cherry in the cue butt to embellish the design and produce a
highly playable and attractive cue.
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A snooker is usually 57 inches (Peradon are 58 inches) long, for many
people carrying their cue about with them is therefore inconvenient due
to its length. The natural alternative to a single piece cue is a split
or jointed cue, however some purists believe such cues to be inferior
though many find them to be just as good. The following information
should be noted buying a split cue and is in addition to the
information about buying queues in general (link).
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The obvious place to split the cue is half way down the shaft and thus
halving the overall length of the cue case being carried. However for
some players this split is inconvenient as the brass connection can be
a distraction when looking down the length of the cue. In such cases
many prefer a three quarter length split where the screw connection is
nearer the cue butt and therefore out of the line of sight. The only
down side to this is that the cue case is not a short as it may
otherwise have been. Additionally, a three quarter length split allows
alternative butts to be attached to length the cue for example when
using a rest.
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Hand Made cues are often made out of one piece of wood which is then
split and the connection added, in such cases the grain matches when
the two pieces are connected and the balance of the cue can be more
true. With manufactured cues the two pieces are manufactured separately
and the cue tip end and the cue butt ends are made from separate pieces
of wood and so the grain and balance will not match perfectly.
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Since the purpose of using a split cue is to make it easier to carry
and transport it is natural to purchase a case with a split cue and we
stock a wide variety to cater for your needs.
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